Outboard Engines Maintenance Troubleshooting and Repair by Edwin Sherman

By Edwin Sherman

The first variation of Outboard Engines set the normal for a transparent, easy-to-follow primer on engine fundamentals, troubleshooting, care, and service. This new version, considerably accelerated, brings the topic modern, with complete assurance of the recent four-stroke engines, traditional digital and direct fuel-injection platforms, oil-mix structures within the new fresh two-strokes, and extra. you are going to retailer money and time doing all your personal engine upkeep and maintenance.

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This computer has various names, depending on the engine maker: electronic control module (ECM), electronic control unit (ECU), ignition control module (ICM), and engine management module (EMM). Next this voltage is sent to a capacitor inside the module, where it builds up a charge (capacitors are solid-state devices that store electrical energy). Once fully charged, what Mercury refers to as a “gate signal” is applied and the computer directs the capacitor to discharge. This gate signal is supplied by yet another set of coils, or in some cases what’s known as a Hall effect sensor, strategically located under the flywheel.

You probably already know the often-frightening smell of overheated electrical wiring and components. It indicates a problem that must be traced quickly, before serious damage results. Oil leaking from an oil-injection system will collect on the hot engine block and emit its own distinct foul smell and probably create some smoke, too, depending on the severity of the leak. Again, immediate attention is needed. Lastly there’s your sense of touch. Use it to find loosely mounted engine components such as starters, regulators, fuel pumps, and the like, before they fall off.

If you follow the procedures below, you’ll enjoy longer engine life and an easy start-up next spring. Winter Storage. A good way to start is by stabilizing the fuel in your tanks. ” Each manufacturer has its own brand of fuel conditioner that’s specifically made for your engine type, so stick to the recommended brand. Simply add the correct amount of stabilizer to your fuel, as directed on the label, if you’re not going to be using it for more than a month or so. It stops the fuel mixture from turning to harmful varnish in your carburetor and inside the engine.

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